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Wednesday, February 23, 2005

Resort Life and $5 Freedom (Thailand)

The only reason I chose to go/come to Ko Lanta first was that I determined it was the best possible base to dive my chosen sites in Thailand. Ko Lanta also turns out to be favorite of traveling low budget “backpackers” and in a few instances higher spending folks too.

I see the attraction but I don't particularly desire it myself – no matter the price. Frankly, hanging out at a resort or on the beach everyday gets boring. I recalled my tour around Australia. Visiting beaches got tiresome. I was starting to feel a little restless / trapped at my resort on Ko Lanta even though I did manage to do something different everyday. I guess that is a sign that it is time to move on.

....that is until I finally mustered the courage to rent a small 125cc motorcycle to tour the island. 200Baht / US$5 being the damage for this pleasure. As I motorbiked around the island on the mostly empty coastal roads the thrill of exploration revived itself. Ahh...the vistas and freedom. -- After that, I certainly could have stayed a few more days. --

Motorcycle Touring

While I have taken a motorcycle training course and got my license in the US, I never did buy a motorcycle. Thus, my practical experience and confidence is minimal. The last time I rode one was in Northern Thailand last year. I usually prefer quiet bicycling to motorcycling. Not realistic on Ko Lanta as I soon realized with crappy roads, many hills, and longer distances.

As for mustering up the courage...really.....how much courage does one need when you see everyone riding one. Young kids, people wearing flip flops, moms with small children, old grannies. All mostly without helmets to boot. Probably without insurance too.

I realized this time (I went solo this time whereas in Northern Thailand last year I rode around with a couple of Americans and a Danish girl) that a motorcycle is such a great way to get off the beaten path and go to seldom visited places. I enjoyed the experience so much that I am even contemplating doing some motorcycle touring in the future. In the Travelers on the Road section there are a few websites of people who toured the world (Or parts of it) via motorcycle. I also met a young Dutch guy last year in Nepal (Taking a break with his girlfriend) who bought a motorcycle in India and had been riding around India for 8 months. I thought all of them were a little crazy. Let me put the emphasis on the past tense – thought.

A car is good too, but something about a motorcycle....

Maybe you think I am crazy for quitting my job and going traveling - today. Today's craziness for you is tomorrow's normal state of affairs. Airplanes, radio, televisions, computers, mobile phones, flat panel displays, DNA, etc....unthinkable to all but a few (If any) +/- 125 years ago. This is just talking technology. Think of all the social upheavals. One of the craziest things about America is how people are satisfied with such limited vacation time contrary to many other similar economic level countries.

Our world is crazy. I love it, and hate it at the same time.

Bangkok Student Image

Three of the students who I met at the Bangkok airport decided to come out and meet me. The girl to the right was the main translator at the airport. Funny thing is, during dinner she seemed to forget her English and mostly spoke in Chinese. The guy on the right side ended up doing most of the translation as he remembered his English better but forget his Chinese.

The setting for the photo may become a familiar one. It is just outside what must be the best food court at any price in the world - that I have found anyway. I also went with the French/Belgian travelers to this food court too. Though I didn't have my camera with me. The counter in the back is where they process Tourist VAT (tax) refunds.

This food court (A real misnomer) is at the top of a department store.





I only have my camcorder right now which has a really basic still photo capture (1.2 Megapixels). Low resolution. My main small digital camera (Canon Elph S400) got toasted when my underwater camera housing flooded on my last dive. I just sent it back for insurance repair/replacement via FedEx. Not sure when I will or be able to get it back for this diving trip. I left my larger Canon G3 at home. Maybe I'll have my dad bring that one. Either that, or I will start becoming a videographer. Can't really post videos on the road though as I need to convert them from MiniDV tape. That would have to wait until I return home to process them.

The photo is at an angle too because I have an adapter (chest tripod mount) on the bottom of the camcorder which I didn't bother to take off. Details, details...

Thursday, February 17, 2005

Tsunami Deals

It didn't take long for the Tsunami discounts to start appearing as I approached closer to my first primary destination on this trip, the island of Ko Lanta in South Thailand. After spending a tough first night (The first night always seem to be tough on long trips) in a clean and large but fan only room (240 Baht! / US$6) in Phuket-town I was on my way.

[I reserved an air-con room but they gave my room away earlier in the day – I arrived around 7pm. Surprisingly they were sold out and I was given their last room – I even saw them turn away 3 backpackers as I checked in]

As I stepped aboard the ship for the 2 hour crossing across the now infamous Indian Ocean/Andaman Sea I was mobbed by touts waving resort brochures in my face with heavily discounted rooms. I happily obliged and settled on a place and area that sounded familiar in my research. I ended up getting a bright interior concrete bungalow with hot water (Not an automatic feature as in the US), air conditioning, mini-fridge, and satellite TV for 600 Baht / US$15. About 150-200 feet from the beach I might add. I could glimpse the ocean from my room.

They also showed me bungalows that were a little nicer (Upgraded furnishings/decor with new remote controlled air con units) with good views of the ocean, and all less than 30 feet from the beach. Those went for 800 Baht / US$20. I decided to save the US$5/night and err on the side of caution by being a little further away from the ocean, even though the beach in this area is very wide, and quite good for jogging I'll add - with a wide section of solid sandpack. The water had reached the resorts on this beach but the water level was under .5 meter / 1.5 feet. I could see the waterline in my bungalow. A little further up the beach is a spit where a few resorts were closed and damaged. There the water came from both sides. I believe about 10-20 people died there.

...anyways...we've (I have anyway) heard enough about death.....about getting good deals....I was pleasantly surprised to find out that my rate included a hearty breakfast. Not insignificant as this might total 80-120B. Since I was staying a week I also remembered the tout's offer, 1 night free if I stay a week. This further reduced my room rate another 15%. All in all, my room rate averaged 525B / US$13.65.

This is the high season and in normal times these same rooms would be going for 3-4x more.

For those on an even tighter budget, fan-only bungalows were also available widely for 250-300B/night (No breakfast I think). Many of the fan-only bungalows are made almost entirely of wood (Bamboo?). When I left Ko Lanta I hooked up with a trio of French/Belgian travelers for a day – two of them who I later met in Bangkok for dinner. They were able to negotiate an A/C room similar to mine for 200B/night by having the touts compete with each other, albeit without breakfast, and much further south (Higher transport cost / time to get to pier / town area – important for scuba diving) and at a resort with a crappy / almost non-existent beach (But with a nice pool) and a slightly more cramped feeling. I know because I checked it out when I rented a motorcycle for a day. It didn't occur to me to bargain too hard on already heavily discounted rates.

So...the lesson in practice here is one group's misfortune can be your gain. Although perhaps they should feel fortunate that travelers like myself are indeed still coming.

As a frequent traveler I think this good fortune does go both ways. Sometimes I've paid high prices because I was in a place during a peak holiday season. On my last RTW ticket I was the victim of a very weak US dollar in Australia (1.35-1.45 to 1) and UK. On the contrary on earlier travels to Australia (2 to 1) and New Zealand (2.4 in 2001, now 1.7) in 2001 I was the beneficiary of a very strong dollar. I also had good exchange rates in Brazil and Argentina in 2003.

Payback?

For those who believe in Gods/supernatural forces one could argue that for “some” – the Tsunami was punishment for excessive greed. Tracking the real estate price growth in South Thailand in the last few years would give a good picture. Besides, a peak season rate of 3x-4x what I paid for my room is a lot of money in Thailand. The bungalows are nice but most aren't 5-star hotel levels. On heavily hit Ko Phi-Phi the rates were even more ridiculous pre-Tsunami.

Perhaps the same could be said about 9/11 victims as a whole? Or the various high profile VERY VERY well to do individuals who suffer public personal tragedies. On a non-death level of greed – what about the high tech / Nasdaq stock bubble?

While I don't believe in any of this from a supernatural standpoint as there are many well to do folks who don't suffer major tragedies, I'm sure there are those who will. But, I do believe bad things will result from an excessive greed standpoint – whether it be greed over money, power, fame, etc... (For 9/11 - oil and Arabia). But, that is another topic altogether.

I haven't even mentioned the idea of nature's payback for excessive coastaldevelopment (Cutting down of mangroves, coral destruction, shrimp farms), but that would also fall into the excessive greed (And stupidity) category in my book.

Celebrity Spotting

When I last set off on my 1st RTW (Round the World) trip I commented (Oct 2003) on the irony of flying in business class yet arriving at my first night's lodging at a youth hostel in Melbourne, Australia. Strange indeed. Well this time a reverse sort of irony took place.

No business class this time. Just regular old economy class on Taiwan's EVA Air from Seattle-Taipei-Bangkok. I was too cheap to spend an extra $200/round trip on EVA's Deluxe Economy class too. I arrived at Bangkok airport tired, but no worse for the wear. As I sat down next to the left luggage / luggage storage to sort out which of my belongings I needed for my flight down to Phuket for my 10 days of sun and scuba diving I was instantly mobbed by a group of 10-15 young Thais all appearing to be in their young 20s.

In a mix of Chinese, English, and Thai I learned that they were college students studying tourism and that they wanted to interview me. Why me of all people? I think they were focusing on Chinese tourists – thus the reason it was a mix of languages including Chinese. Never mind that I am regularly, if not always, mistaken for being Thai by Thais.

The next thing I know they are surrounding me like a pack of wolves. Keep in mind I am very tired from flying. It is a bit overwhelming. If I had any sense about me I would have refused their earlier request but my curiosity got the best of me. So they start asking me questions with one particular girl as the primary interpreter. They shove a large tape recorder up toward my face. Some of them find it fascinating as I show them my scuba equipment I lugged across the ocean.

We traded banter for about 15-20 minutes. Mixing curiosity with chuckles as we tried to figure out what each side was saying. I very much thought of taking out my camera and getting a group shot but I was too tired to even do that. I did have enough mental energy as I answered their questions to wonder - is this what a celebrity feels like when caught in an unguarded moment?

[ As I post this, I am about to have dinner with a few of them tonight. I'm bringing my camera! ]