Liberty Ship Wreck Dive (Tulamben, Bali, Indonesia)

What an amazing dive!

I just had the pleasure of going on a wonderful dive to check out the sea life living around an old American World War 2 era cargo ship that was hit by a Japanese torpedo in 1942. It ran aground on Bali and stayed there until the 1963 eruption of Mt. Agung caused tidal waves to push it out to sea. The great thing about this dive is that the entire ship, all 100 meters+, lies in the ocean at a depth between 5 - 25 meters and it is a shore based dive! No boats, no potential for motion sickness! Closer to the surface - more color! I have never dived to visit a shipwreck - this certainly must be one of the easiest from all my readings.

I saw more variety and number of fish on these 2 dives than I have ever seen before. That, and the coral, mini-tubers, and fans are beautiful. What a wonderful experience! Although visibility was a bit limited at 5 -10 meters due to the currents and the season there was still much to see and many colors to impress upon my eyes.

I have always wanted to see a large school of fish while diving and today was my opportunity.
There must have been hundreds of Jackfish (Each about 1-2 feet long I think) swarming around the center of the wreck, and I was gliding through the water right next to them. On top of that so many colorful fish, far more than I had seen in Australia.

The dives today mark my return to going underwater after recovering from a minor pressure injury in Australia back in October. On the 1st dive it was a bit more difficult for me to equalize my sinuses. I probably had some jitters too. No problems on the 2nd dive. The benefit of not worrying or struggling definitely made the 2nd dive much better.

It was on the 2nd dive that it finally hit me in the center of my brain - the sea is filled with a glorious variety, color, and beauty of living creatures, and in some ways, more accessible than the many creatures on land. As I was gliding over the top of the ship it was as if I was in a dream world almost. I don't have many dives to my name - between 15-20 now, but there is a good spread on where they have been. Of course I have seen pictures and seen television programs on what is underwater, and visited aquariums, but to finally realize it underwater for myself has been a gratifying experience. I'll also add that I was diving with just 1 divemaster - nobody else was in my group. Personalized service - at regular price. While there were other divers from other scuba tour groups the number was definitely manageable.

The only other moments that can even come close to comparing to today while diving was on one of my first open water scuba dives in Washington State, USA - 1992! On that dive I remember going underwater and watching beautiful flowing white flowery type creatures clinging to the side of a jetty, that and the opportunity to have a small octopus wrap its tentacles around my glove. My experience in Australia in 2001 would be next - more due to the overwhelming color of the corals rather than the fish/sharks. Next would be the 5 large manta rays I saw in Exmouth, Australia - but because I didn't feel that well on those dives, my impression of that dive is a bit less favorable than what it could have been probably. The water was colder for one thing!

What a way to mark the New Year!

A Round of Applause for Michelin

I just want to take a moment to pay homage to the guidebook I have been using in Indonesia. The
Neos series from Michelin Travel.
When I first spotted the NEOS (New, Expert, Open, Sensitive) series at the bookstore, I realized this
could be the best guidebook series ever! It is available only for a select list of countries - usually the
less traveled ones (Refer to my JOIN THE CIRCUS section for a set of links to guidebook publishers).

The combination of paper quality, color coding (many colors, not just a couple), hand drawn art,
the right amount of photographs - not too many or too few, and photos layed out within each
location - not just in separator pages (Like Lonely Planet or Rough Guide), use of bolding, color
maps, and recommendations seemed to make it the perfect companion.

I am now putting the book to the test and it is living up to exactly how I thought it would. My
only gripe is more accommodation choices. Overall though it is easier to read, more digestible
information - due to presentation style, and less time with my head in the guidebook rather than
traveling.

The book is also turning out to be more a little more opinionated than I thought - which is good.
I thought initially the remarks were limited to the use of 0-3 stars but the actual text has good
author insights. This is also the first time in a country that I have actually begun to utilize the
language section within a guidebook - it is easy to find due to the color coding of pages. Every
other guidebook I have ever used the language section is harder to read and/or find that I usually
have relied on a separate pocket phrase book.

Many travelers I have met rely exclusively on Lonely Planet. In Australia, other than a single
Rough Guide I spotted, I don't think I met many travelers without the ultra thick Lonely Planet
there. As if it was a Bible or Koran for the faithful. I have already spotted a couple of travelers
here with the Lonely Planet Indonesia - Java edition.

I have used Lonely Planet a fair number of times in the past, though seldom exclusively. When I
left home in September 2003 these are the guidebooks I packed at the bottom of my backpack:

1) Signpost Guide: Australia - a driver's guide to Australia (From my trip in 2001) - gave away
2) Culture Shock: Australia - shipped home
3) Lonely Planet: Australian Phrase book - shipped home
4) Servas Australia contact book - shipped home

5) Lonely Planet Japan - shipped home
6) National Geographic Traveler Series - Japan - shipped home

7) Neos Indonesia

8) Trailblazer - Southeast Asia - The Graphic Guide
(Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore - only 5 pages!, Burma, Yunnan (China), Vietnam, Cambodia,
Laos - Nutshell info on Indonesia, Brunei, East Timor, Philippines)

(Uses innovative maps and less text) Only 240 pages (Compared to who knows how many 100s
or 1000s for the competition). This book so far has worked well for advance planning. It was
sufficient for Singapore - though Singapore is small and easy to get around. We'll see soon
enough how well it works on the ground.

9) Neos Sri Lanka

10) To Be Purchased - Lonely Planet India (Buying it in Singapore / Bangkok)
11) Lonely Planet Middle East


Travels beyond India guidebook plan to be determined when I return to the US in May 2004.
Yes, it is a lot of weight in books but carrying most of the books ahead of time has allowed me to
plan future tours anytime. Buying guidebooks on the road is expensive too.

On the road I also rely on Frommers.com (I have bought a lot of Frommers in the past...though I
don't take them traveling - better to use their website) with its concise easy to read research,
opinionated descriptions, and when I need more upmarket accommodations.

Of course...every country / region now has websites with traveler information and hotel
reservation systems, etc...that I utilize too. Japan and Singapore's excellent tourist organization
websites come to mind. Though I often I don't know about / visit them until I am in the country
due to lack of time in my pre-preparation. Too much time required / spent on the big picture of
round the world trip planning. But, I put them in the DESTINATIONS section as I find them.
Easier for my future return visits and for you to plan your trip(s) in the future!!

Before I forget.....here is my round of applause for Michelin. CLAP CLAP CLAP CLAP CLAP.
It pays to get off the beaten track...both during traveling and while preparing for it.

Aptly Named Tour (Yogyakarta, Indonesia)

I just realized how accurate I named the current tour I am on now. Southeast Asian Contrasts.
Today, it really hit me how people can live in such different worlds. I'm not sure why today, but
perhaps if I explain today and backtrack a little I'll find the answer.

Seeing the living conditions here by themselves is certainly not a shock as I have seen many
different types of places during my travels. But, the change in my vision is definitely different
this time. I first sensed a change coming when I went to buy some food before my train trip here
(Jakarta-Yogyakarta) at the main train station in Jakarta, Gambir. A few small kids would hold
out pieces of paper around me. I dropped a coin into one of them. It struck me how this was
happening in the main train station of the capital city in a country of 210 million people. Not a
few million, but 210 million people. Indonesia is the 4th most populated country in the world
after China, India, and the USA. I would hope that a large country would want to keep at least
certain symbols of their country (Like a main train station) nice, clean, orderly, etc...not luxurious
but just free of things like kids begging.

Further fueling this realization in different living conditions is the fact that my most recent
travels have occurred in the USA, Australia, Japan, and Singapore. These places are a world
apart from Indonesia. All are for the most part modern, clean, with the majority of the
population living in relatively comfortable conditions. There are certainly poor and crappy
places in all of these places - more so in the USA than the others I think.

The final hammer today was when I went to visit a hotel - Amanjiwo. The guidebook mentioned it as a nice hotel from which to have a view of Borobodur, a UN World Heritage Buddhist temple
I visited today, and the volcanoes in the area. I didn't realize how nice it was until I got there. There are 35 rooms
and suites in this hotel. The minimum room rate is US$650/night, US$850 with private pool, up to
US$2500/a whole suite. I wonder why the difference. If one can afford US$650/night there is no
reason to think that US$2500 would be any less of a chink in the money bag. Maybe those are
just inflated rack rates....I doubt it. More likely I am not conscious of the differences between a
US millionaire, US multi-millionaire, and US mega-millionaire.

[ For comparison - a new home in a new subdivision here costs between US$8000 (30 sqm) -
25,000 (90 sqm). You could get a VERY spacious home for US$95,000 (270 sqm I think). I
assume these would be homes for the well to do local folks who have risen beyond selling food
in open-air stalls. ...assuming I am reading the brochures that I collected at the shopping mall.
They show the payment plans and floor plans so it's pretty straightforward despite being in
Bahasa Indonesia. ]

What really struck me is how exclusive this beyond 5-star hotel is given the area I am in. The
view from the hotel is magnificent - Borobudur is framed by volcanoes to the left and right. The
vendor circus in front of Borobudur is not visible. The circus I speak of is what must be at least a
hundred open-air stalls / shop areas layed out right in front of the Borobodur park gates where
people are selling souvenirs and food to visitors. That is in addition to the hawkers trying to be
your tour guide or those selling a small Buddha statue, postcards, and picture books.

So what does it mean? Well that is for another article I am writing. I write this primarily to
explain that we are often shown or told certain things many times. We may even experience these
things first hand. But, to finally realize the meaning of something may take a quite a bit more
convincing and showing in different ways.

This latter point is also one of the reasons I am striving to collect so much different data in the
COMPARE AND CONTRAST section. Showing things in many different perspectives.


Privacy, Safety & Bravery (Dec.22)

One of the employees at Amanjiwo was kind enough to give me a tour of the place. He even
showed me one of the rooms with a pool - it is indeed very nice, magnificent! He told me that
before September 11th, 2001 that most visitors were Americans. Now there is more of a mix of
Japanese, Americans, and Indonesians. The place is sold out for the next week. Americans have
15 out of the 35 rooms. A lot of celebrities stay at the Amanjiwo for privacy. He wouldn't
divulge who some of the guests in the past were. But, he did make a comment about guests
talking to their friends on the phone about how safe it really is. After all, Indonesia is on the US
State Department travel warning list. I wonder if the travellers staying at Amanjiwo feel brave
and pioneering as they tell their friends this.

I don't feel particularly brave about coming to Indonesia. A little apprehensive at first sure.
Apart from privacy - which is a very valid reason if one is famous, if I had to label anyone who
needs to stay at such an exclusive place to experience Indonesia - I would call them somewhat
cowardly. If one can afford it - fine, but I hope none of them feel brave & pioneering - although
maybe these labels are really just relative to one's own life experience and/or circle of friends.





Boy riding in back of truck with many other men - near Yogyakarta, Java, Indonesia


A close up

I think this boy is a bit braver.


Note: Eventually I would like to come full circle with my above comments and talk about how
our money, possessions, and our modern world fuel fear. I won't be the first to talk about it...but
I can give an international flavor and point of view.

Am I just a wanna be long term traveler? (Dec.22)

I'm staying at a 3-star hotel the Accor Ibis Malioboro for US$36 total/night. A tidy sum in this
area. Definitely no magnificent views here. But, it is very nice place for the area. I was
beginning to think - I'm not a real traveler - for I didn't come to this city "cold without a
reservation"...even when I know it is the off season and lodging should be easy to come by.
Echos of hotel difficulties in Sydney perhaps... on top of that I used a private car to get to
Borobudur. I knew it would be cheaper by bus - 30k-50 Rph for coach vs 170k I paid. I could
have saved 120k Rph / US$15. It adds up over a year. But, it was easier and I had more control
over the driving plan - like going to the hotel Amanjiwo.

Of course traveler's come in all shapes, sizes, income levels, comfort levels, and objectives.
I just visited a hotel nearby (Monica hotel).....very clean, functional - without A/C - 50k Rph /
US$6, with A/C - 85k/US$10. Definitely on one of the back streets. I'd probably be staying
there if I was on an ultra low budget or just out of school. The air conditioner is noisy most
likely, the rooms are darker. I wouldn't be able to write this if I was staying there...there is no
desk for one thing. The purpose of my travel is not to go cheap the whole way. Especially if it
affects my objectives. But, I likely will move down to a 1-star place tomorrow - 125k Rph /
US$15.

A Little Frustrated - but I'm building my filing cabinet

I am a little frustrated right now at my inability to keep pace with the ideas flowing through my
head. That is my inability to fully write and research articles or just polish up some articles that
are almost ready to post. I knew this would happen before I traveled, but it is frustrating none
the least. To write decent articles takes a significant amount of time. Not just in being coherent,
but also accuracy, and also to incorporate the research that I like to do via external web links. As
I've stated elsewhere, I don't like to reinvent the wheel or rehash exactly what I am seeing as
many pre-existing books are good for that.

At this point I have enough material to write many books and screenplays and even a fiction book
or two is brewing in my head. And a few business ideas. Actually, I had a lot of this before I
embarked on this RTW trip. I just have even more now. But, more importantly is that I don't
want to (Attempt) to publish anything formally when my view of the world is still largely incomplete. (Or commit to
being an author for that matter) Of course, the world and the number of ideas, perspectives, etc...
it contains is so vast that claiming to have a complete view of the world is folly. I guess that is
why I want to hit all the major regions of the world and why I focus on unique places. While it
(My view) will never be complete, if I can get to what I consider an informed view of the world
via direct experience and build a framework for future information then I'll be satisfied.

The last point being a crucial piece. When I say framework I really mean a filing cabinet.
Everyday in the modern world we see so many stories from so many different places. At least for
me, if I've never been near that area I have no reference point in which to relate that story or to
remember it that is what traveling does for me - it is like building a set of file folders into
which all future things I learn can fit into.

The End of Easy - Headphones revalued (Jakarta, Indonesia)

One of the items that I’ve brought with me and begun to wonder about how useful they are relative to their weight and size are my noise cancelling Bose headphones. They work great on airplanes to give me peace and quiet. They also allow for enhanced in flight movie viewing pleasure. Much better than any of the airline handouts - even in Business Class. But really, how often am I in the air? On top of that - they cost me a lot when I bought it. Do I really need to be carrying such pricey (They don’t seem so expensive when you fly a lot for business) headphones on a world trip?

Of course, I knew the answers to these after I decided to bring them. First, if they just sat in a warehouse they would just gather dust. Not a good use of a purchase. Secondly, I learned from Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro that finding peace and quiet in a big city might be hard to come by - especially if the hotel room is near a major street (With lots of buses) or only has single-pane windows. I’ve used my headphones a couple times on this trip outside of an airplane – but not seemingly enough to justify their existence in my pack.

Today, I found a new use for them. Blocking out the city wide loud speakers of Islamic prayers! No offense to Muslim beliefs, but listening to someone’s prayer out loud is pretty annoying. Thankfully, I can barely hear them through the well padded ear cups.

With that said, this journal entry marks a turning point in my world trip. It really is the END OF EASY now. Nearly every country I go to from here on out until I reach Western Europe will either be dramatically different or harder to get by due to language, infrastructure, culture, or health / sanitary conditions.

The only respite I can imagine are certain areas within individual countries and that is a relative respite. Of course when I say EASY it is relative too. Australia and Singapore are easy due to the level of infrastructure, limited country - history (Less than 200 or so years), and English being predominant. Japan is easy because of the climate (Not hot or humid), prevalence of English and Tourist Information Centers, relatively familiar food (If you eat Japanese food that is), and modern infrastructure. The “culture shock” of these places fits within certain boundaries which makes them easy - though some people may not agree with my take on Japan. There may yet be other places that are easy.

It doesn’t mean that the places I am going to now are difficult to travel in, but there certainly will be more of a struggle and an effort on my part to absorb the differences. Buying my train ticket to Central Java this morning being a case in point.

Oddly enough I am tackling Indonesia first - a country that, save for Bali, isn’t on most people’s holiday itineraries. Most travelers would probably go to Thailand first for an exposure to SE Asia, not counting Singapore. Indonesia would probably be last.

I have been to Japan, China, Taiwan, and Hong Kong so Asia certainly isn’t a mystery to me in that sense. Besides, I am Asian and that does make a difference too. Although I will note that I have met Asian-Americans born in the USA who are more “Westernized” in behavior than Caucasian friends I have. One just can’t tell by looks these days. A mistake of many people that I seem to be meeting.

At various points people have thought I was from - Japan, Vietnam, Singapore, China...but never America. I suspect some people here in Indonesia here might think I’m Indonesian too.


(Dec.22 - I’ll add that the noise cancelling works great on muting out the moped and motorcycle engines! Now that I think about it – these headphones are a great idea for SE Asia!)

Forgotten Time (Jakarta, Indonesia)

I first noticed it in Australia when I walked by a store dedicated to selling Christmas goodies. I thought to myself at the time - isn’t it a bit early? When I was in Japan I saw a lot of stores decorated too but didn’t think much of it. When I was in Singapore (A seemingly different world compared to Indonesia) a few days ago I noticed a lot of Christmas decorations and holiday lights. It finally dawned on me that Christmas and the Western New Year are right around the corner.

I’m finding it so easy to lose track of time while traveling. Sure, I plan out day to day and weekly schedules but the overall picture of passing months seems to have fallen by the wayside. I have no sense of seasons at the moment as I am constantly going to new parts of the world with different climates. If I stayed in one place I would know the time of year is changing because it would get colder or warmer. Or in the case of some places - wetter.

In Japan I did notice there were many beautiful fall colors. But beyond that, my concept of holidays is well...on a holiday.

While most people I know are busy exchanging gifts, buying things for others or themselves, or having year end parties I’m off in some distant part of the world....acquiring experiences, not material goods, except for the occasional souvenir and / or piece of equipment. For Christmas, I will be in Central Java, Indonesia checking out temples and volcanoes. In my wildest dreams I have never dreamed of being in such a place at such a time. My high school friend Bob and his wife Jenny whom I met in Singapore will be in India acquiring new experiences too - so I’m not alone.

There is something comforting about the holidays. The predictability to it. Maybe that is why the Japanese have so many festivals. It is something to focus on and prepare for. Of course giving and receiving stuff is fun too. And the time off work (Well not Christmas in Indonesia - it is a predominantly Muslim nation) - I haven’t forgotten that!!

Stuff is good, stuff is bad, too much stuff is well...too much stuff. As for stuff....this I know – you can’t take stuff with you.....you may not be able to take experiences either...but I think the likelihood is a lot higher.

...oh yeah...I did find the vending machine of used school girl panties in Osaka. I thought it would be great to buy one as a gag gift...but I couldn’t get myself to do it.

Where do I start? (Takebe - near Okayama, Japan)

The past 1.5 weeks have been amazing! Everyday I discover something new and interesting here. Some things are thought provoking, some tasty, others are cute and fun, others are just plain bizarre. Japan is all this and more, despite having worked for 2 Japanese companies in the past in the US and taking a couple of classes on Japanese business and culture in college. A surprise around every corner it seems.

Right now life is good - I am staying at a stylish government sponsored villa (Tax payer money at work!) right next to an onsen (Hot springs spa) all for the grand cost of about 3500Y / US$33 per day - onsen fee included. I have my own Western style room (Only the second time in Japan that I haven’t slept on a tatami mat on a floor). It comes with a very interesting shower/toilet/sink bathroom - although calling it a room would definitely be a stretch. This will make sense when I post some pictures of it. A bath closet is more like it!

As if some force had answered my request for more stimulus, it has delivered. While the things I have seen certainly deserve more thought and writing on my part you will have to be content with just a mere listing of what I have done for now.

- Tokyo - Tsukiji Fish Market - Toured the world’s largest fish market. This is a sight to see. If you never thought or believed the world could be overfished - come here. For comparison - I visited the Sydney, Australia fish market which is claimed to be the 2nd largest fish market in the world outside of Japan. There is NO comparison. The Tsukiji fish market blows it away. Fish arrive from 60+ countries to be sold at Tsukiji before being shipped to the rest of Japan.

- Rode one of the fastest commercial train services from Tokyo to Kyoto - Nozomi service Shinkansen (Bullet train), Speed is up to 270 km/hr or 162 mph on this section with the Series 700 train I rode. I also rode high speed trains on other links...though I think the one I mentioned is the fastest I rode in.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/700_Series_Shinkansen
http://www.jinjapan.org/kidsweb/news/99-04/nozomi.html

- Nara - Stayed in a Ryokan (Japanese Inn) with my own view of a peaceful Japanese garden - 4200Y/night

- Nara - Fed tame deer (Deer biscuits) in a park/temple area. Not a zoo, but just 1000+ deer that have co-existed with the populace peacefully. No fences or any enclosures. Every year there is a festival where the antlers are cut off.

- Himeji - Toured what is considered the best preserved castle in Japan

- Himeji - Dressed up in a full Samurai armor outfit and even got my picture taken on a horse. Only 1200Y (including museum admission, would have been cheaper but there was a special exhibit going on).

- Toyko - Went underground to look at an underground bicycle parking garage complete with bicycle “escalators.” I found this by accident.

- Hiroshima - Toured the site where the first atomic bomb was dropped during World War II.

- Hiroshima - Spent 1 night at what I believe to be the most inexpensive Youth Hostel in Japan, 1940Y / US$18. Most youth hostels average closer to 3000Y/night for a dorm bed.

- Osaka - Visited the 2003 Osaka Motor Car Show (Lucked out on timing!) where I had the opportunity to see many new concept cars (And attractive models) and learn about the latest auto technology from all the major Japanese automakers.

- Tokyo - Toured the new Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation where all sorts of cool exhibits (In English no less too) talk about the latest advancements in science, theories, and discoveries, including a replica of the deepest water submarine in existence - the Shinkai 6500 (Max depth of 6500 meters).

- Osaka - Saw a magnificent Whale Shark (Largest fish in the world) in captivity (Something which was out of season while I was diving in NW Australia) along with some very bizarre and “out of this world looking” deep water Spider Crabs who live as deep as 3000m / 11000ft+. Some how the crabs have been acclimatized to live in a low pressure environment. All this and more at the huge Osaka Aquarium. Although the whale shark in the tank looked pretty bored going in circles. ...the aquarium is next to a 112m / 335 foot ferris wheel. One of the largest in the world. Very impressive.

Apparently there is quite a competition to build ferris wheels among countries:

http://english.people.com.cn/200207/03/eng20020703_99059.shtml

http://english.peopledaily.com.cn/200310/17/eng20031017_126238.shtml

- Tokyo - Watched an early release (1 week before official opening) of the movie Last Samurai in Roppongi Hills, at what is said to be the largest theater in Japan. The Roppongi Hills zone is certainly one of the most, if not the most high tech shopping/living/entertainment/office complexes I have ever seen. Very futuristic.

- Tokyo - Experienced the peak hour of riding the subway where every subway car on a line is packed with commuters. Tighter than a can of sardines.

- Kyoto - Toured historical areas full of temples and gardens. Including the famous Zen Rock Garden temple and Golden Temple. While pretty, both of these were both a little too circus-like touristy atmosphere for me.

- Nara - Visited a temple which is reported to be the largest wooden structure in the world. Largest one I have ever seen.

- Nara - Played a round of Pachinko, one of the Japanese obsessions and promptly lost 1000Y

- Nara - Ate at a McDonald’s with a baby grand piano set amidst modernistic furniture

This is in addition to all the yummy food, bright neon cityscapes, funky neighborhoods, and fall colors I have experienced. There is so much more that I have read about in Japan to discover. Japan is full of colorful action packed festivals and other cultural aspects that take much longer to see.

To cap it off, tomorrow when I head to Narita / Tokyo airport I am going to stop in Osaka and go look for a vending machine (Japan has vending machines for almost everything it seems) that dispenses used school girl panties. An American teaching English in Japan who stayed here at the villa told me where to find it. The only one he has seen in 4 months and it is right down the street from where he lives in Osaka. Apparently, used school girl panties (Minimum 3 days without bathing) are quite an item for some men with this fetish.